Patagonia – Getting There + Chile Nativo

When we decided to go to Patagonia it was a little tough to find a straight answer to “How do we get there?”. We thought about renting a car and driving but that would take too long. We thought about booking a full tour that arranged everything for us but we are self sufficient travelers so we figured we could figure it out ourselves. So, with a little help from Google we figured out where we needed to go and what the best way to get there was. I’m sure there are many ways to get to Patagonia but I’m going to tell you about how Spencer and I got there because that’s the only way I know how. If anyone has other ways then please tell us about it in the comments!

Santiago to Punta Arenas 

We landed in Santiago from NYC so after some sight seeing and a lot of eating we took a flight down to Punta Arenas. Apparently during the winter season this is the closest airport. We’ve heard that in the summer there is an airport right in Puerto Natales (closer to the park) but during our visit it wasn’t an option.

We flew from Santiago with Sky Airlines which is a small carrier. We ended up flying with Sky during our entire stay in Chile. They’re a great inexpensive airline – very basic but well organized and clean – for three one way flights we paid about $300 each. I called them a few times from New York to check baggage details and such and they were super helpful on the phone. You have to pay for your baggage separately so if you book through them make sure you pay for your luggage beforehand.

Our flight took off at 6:30 am and landed at 11:00 am. The flight is actually about 3.5 hours but at the time of our travel there was an hour time difference between Santiago and Patagonia.The reason we took such an early flight is because we wanted to get to Puerto Natales while there was still light out. We had a 5:00 pm orientation with our tour guide and wanted time to see a little bit of the town before sunset.

Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales

Once you get to Punta Arenas, you have to find a way to get to Puerto Natales. Getting to Puerto Natales from Punta Arenas takes about 3 hours by bus and although it sounds daunting after a long flight it was one of the most pleasant experiences on a bus I’ve ever had.

We decided to use Bus-Sur to travel between Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales. They had good reviews and the price was reasonable. You can very easily book your ticket on their website and pay around $11.00 each way. The bus picks up right at the airport so just make sure to book your flight around the time there’s a bus scheduled to leave so you’re not waiting too long. Our bus was around 30 minutes late but it did come. So if you’re waiting for a bit don’t despair! They will show up.

The people working for Bus-Sur were also just wonderful. They gave us blankets at the start of the ride in case we got cold and they kept coming over to clean the fog off the windows so we had a clear view out the window. Every time we passed a squad of Guanacos the driver slowed down so we could all take a close look. Side Note: I forgot my hat on the bus and the people at Bus Sur were so accommodating that someone was able to send us to the bus depot, locate the bus we were on and then let us on the bus to find my hat!

When you get to the Bus Station at Puerto Natales you can take a reasonable cab to your hotel. There is a cab line and the cab drivers are pretty much waiting at the station for anyone who needs a ride.

Puerto Natales to Torres Del Paine National Park

Getting to Torres Del Paine National Park from Puerto Natales is actually quite easy but you will need to drive there. We booked our whole hike through Chile Nativo and part of the what we got in our package was transportation to and from the Park. They picked us up at our hostel, Erratic Rock, and drove us to the park. Keep reading to learn about our actual hike with Chile Nativo and the package we purchased.

Chile Nativo…worth it?

Before committing to Chile Nativo we briefly contemplated doing the W trek on our own. We knew a few people who did Patagonia a few years before us. They got to Chile, rented all their gear and then headed to do the trek by themselves. At the time of our trek we didn’t own a lot of hiking gear and were hesitant about how much we would be able to carry. We also had no idea what to expect or knew how strenuous the hike would be so we decided to take a guide with us.

When we first started searching we were a little worried because it seemed like the park closed at the end of May/early June…this was right around the time we were going. All this said the park does technically close at the start of Chile’s winter but you can enter the park as long as you have a guide with you. So, we were somewhat forced to take a guide and it ended up working perfectly.

From the moment we started to communicate with the Chile Nativo crew they were very responsive and helpful.  We were able to book our hike and trip with them with just a little over three weeks. They gave us many options for routes, dates, distance and prices. We ended up doing the Winter W Trek (5 days, 4 nights) which set us back around $3,000 for both of us. Their website was very clear and told us exactly what we would be doing day to day. I read a few reviews that spoke about this guide “Maurizio” who was “amazing” and I secretly hoped he would be our guide…spoiler alert he was!

A few weeks before the hike they told us there was another person interested in joining the group and asked if it was okay. We talked about it and agreed it would be nice to have 4th person to balance out the group. To this day we talk about how lucky we were to have ended up with Amber – she was an amazing hiking bud!

When you sign up with Chile Nativo you want to make sure you read everything you are signing up for. I mean this in the best possible way as you’re signing up to do a pretty intense hike! This is what we go for our money:

INCLUDED

  • Transportation to and from the Park – key if you don’t have a car! 
  • Entrance fee to Torres del Paine National Park – we heard that its very hard to figure out how navigate the website to do this so we were happy they took care of this for us.
  • Four nights in a mountain hut (sharing rooms bunk bed style) heating, showers & hot water. – again, not easy to book refugios if you’re not familiar with the area/website. 
  • All meals indicated in the schedule (B: breakfast, BL: box lunch, D: dinner) – not talking instant meals here, this means real eggs for breakfast, a box lunch with sandwich, fruit, nuts, snack, etc. and a real meal for dinner complete with home made bread. 
  • Guide (English-Spanish languages)

NOT INCLUDED

  • Any additional nights – trust we wanted to stay longer 
  • Medical expenses – luckily for us we had zero expenses but also Amber is a nurse so we lucked out!
  • Insurance of any kind
  • Personal expenses
  • Alcoholic drinks – there are many opportunities to buy alcohol at the refugio if you need a little sip to unwind after a long hike. 
  • Porters to carry personal belongings for 4 days (available upon request, USD$ 150 per day, with a maximum of 15K per porter, usually good to share one in between two hikers) – honestly no need for a porter, if you hop on over to my “What You Need To Pack” link you’ll see that you don’t need to carry a whole lot. 
  • Gratuities for Guide – after you have hiked this trek with your guide you will want to thank him any way possible, tip your guide! He has kept you safe and out of harms way!

So, overall, do I feel like booking our trip through Chile Nativo was worth it? ABSOLUTELY! We had the best experience with our guide and we learned so much about the area than we would have had we hiked the whole thing alone. We got the best treatment and were able to appreciate Patagonia much more than we imagined possible.

Santiago, Chile

The vibrant capital city of Chile lies perched beneath the Andes. Although at times smog covered this charming and expansive city offers wonderful sites, sounds and especially food.

View from Cerro Santa Lucía

We spent two full days in Santiago, but honestly, I wish we had at least three. We managed to make the most of our stay but there were definitely a few areas I wish we would’ve explored more of. The people were warm and the food delicious. Not only that, most areas of the city offer stunning views of the Andes. At times we would be walking in the park and all of a sudden there they were. Big and beautiful! Below you can find our favorite places to eat, drink and visit in Santiago.

WHERE TO STAY
We settled on Barrio Lastarria after speaking to our friend Yaisa, who lived in Chile for three years. It’s an incredibly vibrant and artistic neighborhood that offers amazing museums, restaurants, live performances and bars. Every few steps we took we ran into a street market, cute cafe or record store.

Street market in Lastarria

ACCOMODATIONS
Airbnb $ – of course usually the least expensive option. Here, here & here you can find a few good ones in Lastarria!

Hotel Cumbres Lastarria $$ – we stayed at a Cumbres hotel later on our trip but we walked by this location multiple times a day and admired the facade. It’s located steps from our favorite restaurant, Bocanariz, and Cerro Santa Lucia.

The Singular Santiago $$$ – The Singular is a family owned hotel that has facilities in both Santiago and Patagonia. Their hotels are absolutely stunning!

 

EATING/DRINKING
Bocanariz – José Victorino Lastarria 276, Santiago, Chile – our favorite restaurant in Santiago – we ate there two nights during out stay. Has an extensive wine list and delicious food. Best of all, it was located in the Lastarria neighborhood right around the corner from where we stayed.

Bocanariz – we tried Ritual’s Pinot Noir and loved it so much we actually went to the vineyard that produces it.

Bocanariz – Grilled salmon fillet, olive praline and gnocchi in carbonara sauce

La Fuente Alemana – multiple locations – Chile’s German heritage is noticeable all over the country, and this Santiago institution is a prime example. Named after a German Fountain around the corner from this location, LFA serves “lomito”. A pork shoulder sandwich that can be served in multiple ways. We shared an Italiano which is named after the Italian flag colors: tomato (red), mayo (white), avocado (green). I wondered why it’s not named the Mexicano…wouldn’t it make more sense as we Mexicans eat so much avocado…?

Lomito Italiano

Donde AugustoMercado Central | San Pablo 967, Santiago, Chile – we really stumbled upon this place on accident right after I just devoured my first completo.  Spencer wasn’t too fond of the mayo and avocado slathered dog so we had to find him something to eat. That’s how we found Donde Augusto. This massive place is located in the cavernous Mercado Central and  serves a long list of freshly caught seafood dishes.

Restaurante 040 – Calle Antonia López de Bello 040, Santiago, Chile – Truly a treat for all the senses. We had read was one of the top 50 restaurants in the world, we’d agree. They offer a prefix menu that was amazing.

La Bifería Av Pedro de Valdivia 065, Santiago, Chile – having a few hours to kill before our reservation to Restaurante 040 we found this place close to the base of San Cristóbal mountain. We only had a bottle of wine and a charcuterie and cheese plate, however both were great.

 

COFFEE SHOPS
Bloom Café (@bloomcafechile) – Merced 307, Santiago, Chile – while walking around I needed a little pick me up and I came across this spot. Complete with a friendly staff, this small yet adorable place made me the most delicious mocha.

Mocha…mmm!

Wonderland Café (@wonderlandlastarria) – Rosal 361, Santiago, Chile – this cafe was located literally right below where we were staying. We didn’t have time to eat there, but did get coffee a few times. Great service and cute spot but beware – iced coffee in Chile does not mean the same thing as in the US!

 

SIGHTSEEING
When traveling, we usually don’t focus a ton on sightseeing unless it’s something we specifically visit the city for. Instead, we tend to stick with walking around, exploring neighborhoods and eating the local cuisine. However, we did see a few things in Santiago we found worth recommending:

Cerro Santa Lucia – this park is on hill which was located very close to where we stayed in Lastarria. We decided to go our last day in Santiago and it was such a nice way to spend a relaxing Sunday. The fountain area unfortunately was closed but the whole park is beautiful and offers great views of the city!

Coat: Primary NYC Dress: Primary NYC Bag: Coach x Rodarte Shoes: Zara

Coach x Rodarte

 

Mercado Central – locals buy fresh seafood in this market but there are many seafood restaurants. This is where we ate at Donde Augusto!

Estación Funicular Pío Nono – this cable car is located at the base of San Cristobal Hill. The cable car runs up and down the hill. Once at the top you can enjoy panoramic view of the city and the Andes.

Plaza de Armas – this is the main historic square in Santiago. It offers views of beautiful buildings and gorgeous architecture dating back to Santiago’s earliest days as the city was built around this square.

 

 

All in all we loved Santiago SO much. I honestly would love to visit again.

 

xoxop

Chile – Country Profile

Over the next few weeks I’ll be posting some info on our trip to Chile. Before traveling to this amazing country I honestly didn’t know a lot about it. So, I made a little guide to help anyone planning to make their way down south!

HOW WE GOT THERE
There are plenty of ways to get to Santiago, Chile. Multiple airlines like American Airlines,  LATAM Airlines, Delta, and United fly direct. Flight costs can vary from $800 –  $1,000 or more. Spencer found us tickets for under $400 with AeroMexico (!!!). He booked way back in October through Kayak’s flexible date option. Our flight was NYC > Mexico DF (about 5 hours) and then Mexico DF > Santiago (about 8 hours). On the way there we had a 5 hour layover which allowed us to run out to Mexico City for some delicious Mexican breakfast. My sister recommended Sanborn’s Azulejos which is about a 30 min cab ride from the airport. It was perfect as we wanted a sit down meal where we could relax before our next leg.

VISAS FOR CHILE
If you’re an U.S. Citizen you don’t need to pre arrange a visa but upon entering Chile you’ll receive a paper that looks just like a receipt you would get at a restaurant. It’s called a PDI slip, and you will be asked for it at every single hotel you check into- so don’t lose it! This slip has all your information (name, passport, DOB, etc.), and should be kept with your passport as you’ll need to hand it back to customs before leaving the country.

PAYING FOR THINGS
Chile is a great balance of cash and credit card economy. As long as the credit card machine is working and you’ve pre arranged your travel with your bank you should have no problem. We each have the Chase Sapphire card, and were able to pay  as little as 1,000 CHP ($1.50) when using it. No need to reach a minimum and Chase Sapphire has no foreign transaction fees so it’s perfect for travel. ATM’s are also very accessible. Our cab driver suggested using one inside a gas station or a bank just to make sure you’re safe.

CHILEAN CURRENCY
The Chilean Peso is deceiving. For Americans, Chile is not a cheap country. I was expecting Patagonia to be expensive as it’s hard to get to and it’s “the furthest most part of the world”. However, I found that in general the exchange rate from USD to CHP was not working in our favor. $1.00 = 661.00 CHP which sounds like a lot but isn’t. Most things are priced just like in NYC. So, a drink could be 3,000 CHP ($4.50) for their cheapest or 9,000 CHP ($13.50) for a glass of wine. Of course you can find more price sensitive places but don’t think the food and drink quality isn’t amazing and worth it, because it is!

GETTING AROUND
Most places we went to were easily walkable which became our preferred mode of transportation. In addition, every city we went to was also accessible by taxi and Uber. We used a combination of both, but mostly Uber. However, we found out that due to restrictions in the country, Uber is only allowed to take you to the airport not from. To leave, you must use an official city taxi or a shuttle bus which are reasonably priced and easy to find.

INTERNET AND PHONES
Unless you have a plan that allows you to make international calls when traveling to a foreign country I would opt to put your phone on airplane mode and just use wifi. We were able to connect everywhere we went. Most restaurants have it for free and Chile even has public wifi at airports, bus stations and different areas in the cities.

NAVIGATION
Due to the abundance of free wifi, we were able to use Google Maps easily while there. Prior to driving, we would connect to wifi and load our route on Mps which became very helpful. If you’re not familiar with this concept, all you have to do is open Google Maps and ask for directions as you regularly would and then just don’t close the app. Once you’re in the car hit the Start Navigation arrow and Siri will give you directions! The blue location dot will move along with you. Sure, there may be a short lag but nothing to be bothered by!

SAFETY
We were warned by our cab drivers and a few people we met to be very careful. Honestly, I don’t know if it’s because we live in NYC but we never felt unsafe. Everyone we met was super sweet and helpful! Just be smart and act like you would in any major city.

WATER
We asked our server about water from the faucet the first night we had dinner and she was very honest. You CAN drink the water and most Chileans do but perhaps you wont love the taste. I tried it and have to agree, it was very minerally but it was fine for the time we were there. Spencer has a very sensitive stomach but was never upset by their water.

In a few days I’ll tell you all about Santiago!

Agave Fields

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Wearing/Usando || CLUB MONACO Benicia Silk Camisole | DENIM SHORTS Similar from LULU*S | KAREN WALKER Starburst Crazy Tort & Gold Sunglasses | PROENZA SCHOULER PS11 | SHOES Found at a Mexican Street Market (similar here, here & here

When my sister called to tell me she was celebrating her birthday in Guadalajara I knew I had to be there to celebrate with her. Guadalajara is one of the most beautiful cities in Mexico and we spent a lot of time there while growing up so I knew going back would be amazing. The last time I was there was eight years ago, just a few weeks before moving to NYC! 

Without hesitation, we bought tickets from Mexican airline, Volaris, who recently started flying direct from JFK to Guadalajara’s Miguel Hidalgo airport. 

One of the most picturesque and adorable towns outside of Guadalajara is Tequila, Jalisco so naturally it was one of our stops. As you can imagine, this is where Tequila, the drink, comes from. The area has the perfect growth conditions for agave plants.

So, we paid a visit to one of the oldest tequilerias in the area, La CofradiaLa Cofradia is an amazing old Hacienda at the entrance of Tequila.  We got a tour of the gorgeous property and were able to do a tasting. Of course we took advantage of the amazing scenery to take some shots…


Cuando mi hermana me llamó para decirme que iba a celebrar su cumpleaños en Guadalajara sabía que tenía que estar allí para celebrar con ella. Guadalajara es una de las ciudades más bellas de México y pasamos mucho tiempo en la adolescencia, así que sabía que la íbamos a pasar increíble.

La última vez que estuve allí fue hace ocho años, tan sólo unas semanas antes de mudarme a Nueva York!  Sin dudarlo, compramos boletos de la aerolínea mexicana, Volaris, que recientemente comenzó a volar directo desde JFK hasta el aeropuerto de Guadalajara Miguel Hidalgo.

Uno de los más pintorescos y adorables pueblos fuera de Guadalajara es Tequila, Jalisco así que naturalmente fue una de nuestras paradas. Como se pueden imaginar, aquí es donde nació el Tequila, la bebida. La zona cuenta con las condiciones climáticas ideales para plantas de agave.

Visitamos  a uno de las tequilerias más antiguas de la zona, La Cofradia.  La Cofradia es una antigua Hacienda increíble en la entrada del Tequila. Nos dieron un tour de la propiedad preciosa y pudimos hacer una cata. Por supuesto que aprovechamos de el increíble paisaje de tomar algunas fotos

Desert Heat

 

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UNIQLO Crew Neck Short Sleeve | ZARA Long Jacket with Fringing | MINK PINK Slasher Flick Cut-Off Short | COS Block Heel Leather Boot

 

With the amount of travel I was doing in early Fall, weddings, work, etc. I have been running around like a crazy person so I haven’t had time to post this super fun photo shoot I did with my uncle.

Now that the weather is cooling off in NYC these pictures make me miss the warm Palm Springs sun. Luckily, in a little over 2 weeks we will be en route to Guadalajara. Another place I hold close to my heart.


Con la cantidad de viajes a principios del otoño , bodas , el trabajo, etc. he andado por ahí como loca. No he tenido tiempo de publicar esta super divertida sesión de fotos que hice con mi tío.

Ahora que el clima se está enfriando en NYC hecho de menos el cálido sol de Palm Springs. Por suerte , en un poco más de 2 semanas vamos a estar en Guadalajara. Otro lugar que guardo cerca de mi corazón .